Tangy Seafood Stew

• In a 3-to 4-quart saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the canola oil and garlic and cook at a gentle sizzle, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, until the garlic is golden. Pour in the water to arrest the cooking, then add the brown sugar, pomegranate molasses, fish sauce, salt, and pineapple. Turn the heat to high to bring to a fast simmer, adjust the heat to maintain that pace, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes to develop flavor. (If not serving right away, remove from the heat and cover; return to a near boil before continuing.)
• Add the fish fillet, shrimp, and clams to the pan and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, just until the fish is opaque, the shrimp curls, and the clams open. Add the celery and cook for about 2 minutes, until slightly softened. Add the tomato and bean sprouts and cook for 1 minute more, until slightly softened, then turn off the heat. Add the herbs, cumin, and chile to the pan and then let sit for 5 minutes. Taste and, if needed, adjust the flavor with additional brown sugar, fish sauce, or pomegranate molasses to arrive at a tart-sweet-savory balance.
• Using a two-handed approach with a ladle in one hand and chopsticks or tongs in the other, transfer the soup to a large bowl or divide among individual soup bowls. Serve immediately.

Pomegranate Molasses:

• To make in the microwave In a 4-cup glass measuring cup (or similar microwave-safe container), combine the pomegranate juice, lemon juice, and sugar and microwave on high in 4-to 5-minute intervals, until the mixture has reduced to ½ cup of syrup, 20 to 25 minutes.
• To make on the stove top In a 1½-or 2-quart saucepan over high heat, combine the pomegranate juice, lemon juice, and sugar and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Turn the heat to medium-high to maintain a vigorous simmer or a low boil and let the liquid bubble for 25 to 30 minutes, swirling the pan now and then for even cooking, until it’s reduced by 75 percent; you should have ½ cup of syrup. (The syrup should easily coat the back of a spoon with a thickish cabernet-colored film. If you run your finger through, the line should hold; but be careful, because it’s hot.)
• Regardless of your cooking method, let the hot syrup cool for 15 minutes, then transfer to a glass jar and let cool completely, uncovered, to further concentrate and thicken. Taste the molasses, and if a tart edge is needed, add more lemon juice, ½ teaspoon at a time, whisking or stirring well to combine.
• Store the molasses, refrigerated, for up to 6 months. If it firms up, warm it to liquify before using.